WELL, IT APPEARS the rainy fall weather has arrived, which is a good thing. As is seeing snow up in the mountains.
As promised last week, I will explain the advantages to several types of root pruning — keeping in mind all pruning is stimulating!
I am willing to bet that most of you know what to do when you buy a plant, that when the pot is removed, it reveals a mass of tightly bound roots.
That’s correct — you root prune it.
This is the first and probably the most commonly used method of root pruning done by a gardener. When the roots are tightly packed and wrapped in a knot due to the confines of a pot or container, they can actually stunt growth. The tried and true method is to not only cut off the entire bottom edge of the root ball, but to score the edges of the root mass as well.
I usually do this with the tip of my pruner, rubbing it firmly up and down the side walls of the root mob. This action severs the numerous roots and is a form of pruning.
Thus chipping off the bottom acts as a “heading cut,” which in turn causes numerous new roots to develop at the point of the cut.
Next, if you ever purchased “bare root” material (and you should), it is critical that you perform a root prune. This simply means you take all the exposed roots and trim off their ends.
This in return causes new roots to branch out from the point of the cut. It also helps in breaking dormancy because many bare root items are “forced” into dormancy.
Another root prune is inherent in transplanting.
When you dig up a perennial, bush, tree, shrub, ground cover or vine; by its nature, your shovel breaks through the root mass and cuts the roots.
Again, this is a “heading cut,” which means new growth will automatically radiate from that cut. If a root dangles, prune them back as well.
Next, a little-used root-pruning trick is to “pre-dig” an item you wish to transplant later. This is accomplished by taking your shovel to the botanical item you wish to transplant in the future and go completely around the plant, thrusting the shovel as deep as you can. This again cuts the roots and starts new root development, but the plant is left intact. Make sure to water it well though.
When the time is right, you pop it out of the ground and into its new location. New root development has already occurred, and the transplanted item takes off with amazing new growth.
Then, finally, the least known and least used is root pruning to rejuvenate old vines, fruit trees or old flowering ornamentals. This method is best done with a long slender “trench shovel” so as to get down deep.
By thrusting into the ground deeply at the foliage line (perimeter of the leaf canopy), you cut off the feeder roots.
Once again, numerous roots sprout forth from this area. These new, abundant “feeder roots” stimulate the old plant and the result is far more flowers or fruit.
Make sure whenever you prune and however you prune to add plant-specific fertilizer because all pruning is stimulating.
So, please, time to plant and transplant, and become a root-pruning wizard!
And do, stay well all.
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Andrew May is a freelance writer and ornamental horticulturist who dreams of having Clallam and Jefferson counties nationally recognized as “Flower Peninsula USA.” Send him questions c/o Peninsula Daily News, P.O. Box 1330, Port Angeles, WA 98362, or email news@peninsuladailynews.com (subject line: Andrew May).
